An optometrist and a bookie walk into a steakhouse. It sounds like the setup for a questionable joke, but Harry Roth and Izzy Rosen turned an unlikely partnership into a celebrated piece of Indianapolis history. Nearly 40 years after their time at the helm ended, the two friends have found their way to Paradise Valley, where their names now grace a dazzling new restaurant with famous connections, a spectacular blue ceiling, and shrimp cocktail sauce that could probably strip paint.
Harry & Izzy’s opened this fall at the reimagined PV, formerly Paradise Valley Mall, marking the Indianapolis-born restaurant’s first venture outside Indiana. Clearly, the Midwest didn’t pack light.
Two Guys, One Steakhouse & Peyton Manning
The duo operated Indianapolis’ legendary St. Elmo Steak House from 1947 to 1986, although the restaurant itself dates to 1902. Their friendship eventually inspired Huse Culinary to launch Harry & Izzy’s in 2007, keeping their legacy alive for an entirely new generation.
That legacy also attracted some serious Indianapolis royalty. Hall of Fame quarterback Peyton Manning is an ownership partner in Harry & Izzy’s, including its Arizona location. Apparently, retirement from football leaves plenty of time to develop an excellent relationship with steak.
Look Up. Seriously.
The 8,300-square-foot restaurant makes quite an entrance, especially beneath a dramatic blue ceiling that practically deserves its own fan club. An expansive bar and 2,400-square-foot patio add to the appeal, with room for 340 guests.
One wall celebrates iconic duos, including Dolly and Miley Cyrus, alongside the wonderfully improbable pairing of Snoop Dogg and Martha Stewart. It’s an eclectic collection, but a restaurant inspired by an optometrist and a bookie has certainly earned the right to appreciate an unconventional friendship.
The Shrimp Cocktail Has Anger Issues
At St. Elmo, shrimp cocktail has never been a quiet little appetizer, and Harry & Izzy’s carries on that tradition with four jumbo shrimp and a horseradish-heavy sauce that arrives ready to pick a fight. When we visited, our server described it as “nasal clearing,” a spectacular example of Midwestern understatement. One enthusiastic bite can send a shock wave straight through the sinuses. Think cheaper than Sudafed, considerably more entertaining, and best enjoyed with a cocktail nearby.
For those who prefer their appetizers without a personal confrontation, the menu offers toasted ravioli and an indulgent triple-crème cheese board, alongside premium steaks, seafood, and American classics.
The $22 Shadow Mountain lunch is another welcome surprise, featuring sliders or bucatini Bolognese, a small salad, and fries or garlic toast. It’s a satisfying way to experience the restaurant without consulting a financial adviser.
More Than Another Steakhouse
Phoenix isn’t exactly starving for steakhouses, but Harry & Izzy’s brings something beyond another expensive cut of beef. There’s a genuine sense of personality woven into the space, from its unlikely namesakes to the playful details honoring their friendship.
Weekend brunch and daily happy hour add to the appeal, whether the occasion calls for a leisurely lunch or an evening that unexpectedly requires another round.
Harry and Izzy may have left St. Elmo decades ago, but their friendship has proved remarkably good at staying in business. And now that it’s made the move from Indianapolis to Arizona, there’s only one thing left to debate: which side of the bar deserves the first toast?
Insider Takeaways
- The history: A 2007 Indianapolis concept inspired by two friends who helped shape St. Elmo Steak House.
- The famous connection: Hall of Fame quarterback Peyton Manning is an ownership partner.
- The must-try: St. Elmo Shrimp Cocktail, toasted ravioli, and triple-crème cheese board.
- The lunch deal: The $22 Shadow Mountain includes an entrée, salad, and side.
- The details: 12770 N. Tatum Blvd., Phoenix, at PV. Open daily for lunch and dinner, with weekend brunch and happy hour from 3 to 6 p.m.
Learn more at harryandizzys.com.
